Rottweiler Breeder - Rottweiler Puppies - Rottweiler Stud Dog - Esmond Rottweilers | Mike Jackman & Ann Felske Jackman | Ontario Canada


Considering a Rottweiler for the first time?  

One of the best sources of breed information is the ARC's  FAQ page at  View our LINKS pages for further information on the breed, health and diet info etc.  Our breed is not for everyone, please research carefully before you buy!!!


What to expect when you meet the breeder...

The breeder should be able to explain the Breed Standard, and how his or her lines meet or deviate from them. The responsible breeder should be willing to educate the potential buyer about show vs. pet quality, and alert the buyer to faults in his or her line. The responsible breeder engages the dogs in sports appropriate to the breed: schutzhund, agility, obedience, tracking or herding. Learn about the Titles obtainable in each sport, and inquire about the breeder's dogs' achievements.

Kennels should be clean, with fresh drinking water in clean containers. There should be indoor as well as outdoor facilities, comfortable beds, toys, and fresh chew items. Dirt runs are not ideal, as the soil may be infested with parasites, but if present should have a layer of chips or sawdust.

Dogs should be of good weight, clean, energetic, not aggressive or excessively timid. Look for condition of teeth, ears, eyes, and nails. Be alert for redness or discharge from the eyes. 

Definitely ask to see and meet the older dogs on the property. Brood bitches past the age of safe whelping and older stud dogs should be present as house pets. It is especially informative to take a look at these older dogs. Subtle clues such as condition of teeth, nails, and skin tell volumes about the commitment the breeder has made to the well-being of his or her dogs and your prospective puppy.

Find out how many litters are whelped each year. Get a sense of whether the breeder regards breeding as an income source. Profiting from breeding indicates that he or she may not be breeding to help or improve the breed, and you might be wise to quit the interview right there.

Ask to see a history of the breeder's lines. See how many times the dogs and bitches were used in breeding. A bitch should not be bred at less than 2 years nor older than 8, nor should she produce more than 4 litters in her lifetime. She should not be bred more than 2 out of 3 consecutive seasons.

Responsible breeders should test for the following hereditary conditions: hips and elbows (OFA), eyes (CERF), Cardiac (OFA), thyroid (complete panel), and von Willebrands Disease (vWD). Breeders will disagree on which tests are necessary, but there should be evidence that the breeder is consistently checking for hereditary problems. Ask to see the test results on both the sire and the dam. If proof of these test results are not available to you, it is time to look elsewhere for your puppy.

If the litter is already present, note where it is kept, and what is being done to socialize it. Puppies should be house dogs until they are sent to their new homes. A puppy kept in a kennel or barn will not have had the appropriate social stimulation and interaction with people to be an optimal pet. At the appropriate developmental stages they should have been introduced to children and other people, other animals such as cats, washing machines, vacuum cleaners and lawn mowers, and riding in the car. Littermates should appear healthy and vigorous.

See the contract/guarantee before leaving a deposit or purchasing a puppy. Read the contract thoroughly. Sad to say, the disreputable breeder can (and will) try to insert clauses to which you never agreed. The contract should specify details of the sale, including a health guarantee and the breeder's lifetime commitment. The kind of health guarantee will change from breeder to breeder, but it should be in the written contract in some form. The breeder should be able and willing to take the puppy or dog back at any point in its life if you are unable to keep it. Do not accept verbal assurances in place of a written contract on these points. Puppies should be a minimum of 7 weeks old, with appropriate vaccinations and worming, and fulfillment of the contract should be conditional upon the examination of the puppy by your veterinarian within a specified time period. If the puppy is pet rather than show quality, spaying or neutering should be a part of the contract. AKC/CKC registration should be clearly specified. Read the contract thoroughly.

The responsible breeder will provide a packet of information regarding training, diet, and general care, with several resources for you to check out. Ask to see this before signing the contract.

Here is the most important question of all to ask yourself: Do I like this person? Is this breeder someone I want in my life for the lifetime of my dog? Because that is exactly what is going to happen. Rely on your instincts about this person, and follow them.

Be prepared to be inspected as closely as you just inspected the breeder. The more questions asked, and the more references required, often indicate the degree of dedication of the breeder to his or her dogs, and how much follow-up assistance you can expect.

It may take time, patience, and quite a few long-distance phone calls until you feel you have the right breeder lined up, but it is worth every moment and every penny to get that special dog. The results will be worth it.


Questions to ask breeders...

Were the puppies born on the premises? 

Are the sire and dam each at least two years old? 

May I see and visit with both parents?  If the sire is not owned by you, can you put me in contact with his owner?

Is the dam a family pet (meaning does she live in the house as part of the family)? 

At what age are puppies allowed to go to their homes?  (should be at least 7 weeks)

Have the puppies been introduced to children? To other animals? 

What is your philosophy on breeding in general and with respect to Rottweilers? Why did you breed this pair of dogs in particular? How did they fit into this philosophy?

How many of the dogs in the pedigree have you actually seen & put your hands on? Tell me everything you know about the sire and dam. (You want to know more than just what can be found on the pedigree.)

What titles (conformation &/or working) are in the pedigree? How far back? How many dogs? What titles/degrees are you currently working on?

Are the sire & dam OFA Certified? CERF tested? Cardiac Cleared? Do you have evidence? What about farther back in the pedigree?

What is the incidence of dysplasia, eye problems, ruptured ACL's, cancer, etc., in the pedigree? 

Were there any temperament problems in the ancestry of the puppies? 

What are the sire's/dam's worst/best fault/trait? 

How much time do you spend on planning the litter & rearing the pups? 

Do you temperament test? What test do you use? How do you evaluate? (Ask to see the results. Have the breeder explain them. If they can't, what good is the test to them?)

Do you offer a Health/Temperament guarantee on your puppies? What is it? If I have a problem, will I have to return my puppy?

Do you require a spay/neuter agreement on companion-quality puppies? (This is Good) 

Are you able & willing to answer my questions for the life of the dog? 

Can you/will you answer my special medical, food & training questions? Will you tell me when you don't know a answer? Do you have access to resources when the questions stretch beyond your knowledge?

Will you supply at least a 4 generation pedigree, the puppy's health record & instructions on how to properly take care of my new dog?

What clubs are you active in? 

What references can you give me of previous purchasers? 



A Responsible Breeder... 

- is eager to share detailed breed information

- believes there are no "stupid" questions

- grabs every opportunity to educate

- explains total breed care

- supplies shot records, pedigrees, care information

- explains genetic defects in the breed

- is willing to let you see the sire & dam

- questions the buyers ability to care for the dog

- offers guarantees

- talks about training and development

- cares about each and every pup

- maintains sanitary, clean quarters for the dogs 

- tests all breeding stock



Frequently asked questions...


What does AKC mean?   *Note...can be applied to CKC as well...

A lot of puppy ads proudly proclaim that their puppies are "AKC" puppies. The initials "AKC" stand for American Kennel Club. The AKC is the leading breed registery in the United States of America. The assumption, often by both the seller and the buyer is that if the puppy is an "AKC" puppy it must be of high quality and healthy. It would be a wrong assumption, as the AKC explains on their web site at

A "purebred dog" is a dog that comes from parents of the same breed - that is all. In the USA if the sire is a Rottweiler registered with AKC and the dam is a Rottweiler registered with AKC then the puppies can be registered with the AKC. It has to do with lineage, not quality, not fitness, not health - just the pedigree, the ancestry, the parentage of the dog. If both parents are AKC registered and are of the same breed then the puppies are also eligible for registration. They can be high quality healthy puppies, or genetic nightmares - it doesn't matter just so long as the parents are registered and of the same breed.


Well, why can't the AKC guarantee quality?

The AKC is not a governmental agency. It has control over its registration policies, but that control has been limited by legal challenges.  Some breed clubs have been able to achieve some improvements, with varying success depending upon the breed club. The differences are most notable among breeds that are not AKC recognized, but even there politics and disagreement significantly interferes with achieving the goals. So we are left with education about the system we have, and how to use it to best effect.


OK, So then what do I look for to get a quality dog?

Dog shows and performance events are the primary means of evaluating the qualities of the dog. Success at these shows is not a requirement before breeding, and it is not a requirement to make the puppies eligible for registration.

Conformation shows evaluate movement, size, coat, color, dentition etc. Conformation shows do not necessarily evaluate health, although there are plenty of health problems that will result in being ineligible for the show ring. Understanding what conformation shows can, and cannot, evaluate is important. They evaluate far more than their detractors presume, and they evaluate less than their proponents often believe.

Performance events help evaluate the abilities of the dog - depending upon the kind of event - its ability to use its nose to track a scent, to jump, to climb, to turn quickly, to swim, to run for long periods, to accept and respond to instruction, and more. Performance events likewise do not directly test for health, although again there are plenty of health problems that will either make the dog ineligible or will seriously interfere with performance.

Success in both the conformation ring and in performance events tends to reflect upon both good health and good temperament because both these qualities enhance success in those cases. Nevertheless neither health nor temperament can be presumed by success in competition. Participation in competition is merely one piece of evidence that dogs being bred are being bred with care and attention to health, temperament, and conformity with the expectations of a person looking for that particular breed.

It is critically important that people be able to select breeds that match their expectations. A person who is unwilling or unable to provide a Rottweiler what it needs may nevertheless be a excellent companion to a Labrador. It is, therefore, important the qualities of the dog be predictable. A breeder who is involved in compitetion is more likely to know what are the expected qualities for the breed. And the competition itself helps both the breeder and the buyer evaluate those qualities on a less emotional basis.